85 Tenth Ave., nr. 15th St.;
212-929-4948
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1 Reviews:
Despite the shitshow that awaits at The Spotted Pig, it would be difficult for one not to admire the accomplishments of chef, April Bloomfield. It is hard these days to produce a truly different and successful concept to New York City food connosieurs and Bloomfield did so successfully with her English Gastropub tour de force. As enjoyable as the food was at The Spotted Pig, I was always distracted by the relatively unenjoyable experience of waiting for a table and the bridge and tunnel crowd and celebrity stalkers that showed up more to catch an Olsen twin than the gnudi. When I heard that Bloomfield was opening a new “more serious” establishment, I wet myself in excitement (sort of..ok maybe).
Since its opening, I’ve been to the restaurant twice and have had mixed experiences. Even though I waited 45 minutes for a table on my first visit, the service is more or less impeccable. The decor, which has been oft-discussed in other reviews is so close to being disgustingly tacky, but it actually works in an idiosyncratic and whimsically mirthful way. A giant fishtank stands behind the bar and the restaurant, which features two rooms and an open kitchen, is covered with martime memoribilia. The room exudes an aquatic blue tint and you do feel as though you are eating at the bottom of a submarine. The front room features several tables and you can at times feel cramped, but there is a back room behind the fishtank that is actually a bit cozier. I appreciate the concept of opening a British seafood shack, but I find it hard to believe that a Portsmouth seafood establishment would sell a $35 dungeness crab covered in messy black pepper sauce, but I digress.
Most of the food is quite good, original, rich, but was considerably blander upon my second visit. For starters, there are appetizers, crudo, and samplings from the raw bar. The escarole salad was a complete debacle and slathered in a creepy tasting anchovy dressing, but the crudo selections were beyond fresh. In particular, the razor clam ceviche melted in my mouth and the diver scallops with pomegranate was a unique combination and delicious.
Before I continue, the award for Best Dish of 2009 must be given to the Oyster Pan Roast with sea urchin butter crostini. I considered getting this for dessert as well and I would recommend making a trip here just for this. The pan roast comes in a small soup cup with a piece of toast on the side covered with slices of what looks like cheese, but is thin, delicious, sea urchin. The roast itself is the richest, most heavenly tasting chowder-like broth imaginable with fresh oysters mixed in. The pan roast is unreal as a standalone, but the confluence of the crostini with the broth is an out-of-body experience.
Over the course of my two visits, the entrees were mixed. The waitress warned me that the dungeness crab would be “interactive” and it was. The dish essentially was several crabs slathered in black pepper sauce. It was messy, you eat it with your hands, and it is not quite the dish you would want to order at a restaurant like The John Dory. The sea bass comes with a rosemary-anchovy pesto and while the bass was fresh, I found it considerably bland. That said, the cod is fantastic, the skirt steak is surprisingly delicious for a meat offering at a seafood restaurant (it is covered with smoked oysters and bone marrow and is a straight up cororary), and perhaps the best entree is the seared squid stuffed with chorizo. The dish is several pieces of squid filled with bomba rice and chorizo-it basically tastes like squid paella, but it is phenomenal. I didn’t dabble much into the sides, but there is one called “Jane’s Temptation” which must have been sweet potatoes filled with 8,000 dollops of butter so it was quite good.
In other news, the wine list is fairly impressive as the sommelier honed his skills at Babbo. I’d definitely recommend the restaurant as April Bloomfield clearly is one of the best chefs this city has to offer. I recently read that the restaurant lowered their prices, which is a good thing, because upon its opening, I found the prices astronomical for a restaurant that was supposed to be a “seafood shack.”
Oh and did I tell you about the oyster pan roast?
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